free hand cutting

Party Top Tutorial.

6 piece bustier top
Hi there stitchers,
It’s been a while since my last post, but all for good reasons. I have been hard at work setting up my studio!!!! It has been quite difficult working from home; as a devout sewist you will identify with my plight; fabric everywhere, pins all over the house and the sewing equipment’s over spilling their allocated boundaries, oh and not forgetting a patient husband smiling his encouragement through gritted teeth lol. The move out of home was due and very welcomed.

Ok so Christmas is nearly here and I must warn you, I am one of those people who get very merry. I absolutely LOVE Christmas much to the annoyance of everyone around me. With this in mind (the fact that Christmas is around the corner), I decided to do a workshop for a Christmas party dress, there were a few options but the winner was the velvet wrap dress I made on the sewing bee. So before I move on to today’s tutorial, here is a quick breakdown; there are 2 dates available, one in October and one in November, the workshops are 2 days long, both days starting at 10am and finishing at 4pm for more information on what you will need and to book a place, click https://www.kazoova.com/activity/544/ Spaces are selling fast so get in there!!!

Right!! The top I’m showing you how to make today is super sexy and you can embellish it however you choose, I have gone with a black lace and red theme for added va va voom.

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You will need:
• Fabric (something stiff 60” by 60” wide)
• Zip
• Steam Iron
• Scissors
• Chalk
• Ruler
Measurements needed (please work in inches):
• Bust
• Underbust
• Waist
• Shoulder to Overbust
• Shoulder to Underbust
• Shoulder to Waist
• Shoulder to Hem

You will need to do some maths, label these measurements as:
• Shoulder to hem – Shoulder to underbust = Blouse length
• 9 inches – Shoulder to overbust = Bust line
• Shoulder to underbust – shoulder to overbust = Underbust line
• Shoulder to waist – shoulder to overbust = Waist line
These are all vertical measurements (our vertical measurements are used as reference marks along which we mark our horizontal measurements)
Method
1. Fold your fabric in half, right side facing in, and press (TIP: always press after every fold). From the top edge measure and mark the blouse length+1.5”, mark in intervals to enable you to draw a straight line across the fabric, cut along this line and set the longer piece of fabric aside.

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Fold 1″ of the open edge in towards the folded edge and press; these two opposite ends are now your centre front and centre back, the top is your top seam and the bottom, your hem.

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2. Bring the centre front over to line up with the centre back and press

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3. From your centre front and back fold, along the top seam measure and mark 4.5”. From the top seam (working vertically) mark the waist line. From the centre front and back fold, along the waist line, mark 4”, along the hem, from the centre folds, mark 6”.

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Join these marks with a straight line and cut along the line

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4. Take the fabric you put aside, fold it in half again so that you have four layers of fabric. You will now use your centre front panel as a template to cut out your 4 side panels. Lay your centre on the folded fabric and cut around the cut edges only.

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Flip the centre front panel so that it mirrors the cut you just made, pull it one inch towards the edge you just cut and cut around the cut edge again,

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(these 4 panels you just cut will be slightly smaller than the unfolded centre panel. It will now look like this:

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5. Sew one of the side panels to each side of the centre panels, press only the sewn seams (do not press out the centre front or back folds.

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Now you have one front piece made up of 3 panels and 2 back seams made up of 4 panels. Back in their centre folds, lay your front piece on top of the back piece.

6. from the centre folds from the top seam, measure down 2-4″ and mark (this is for the sweetheart dip so make it as low or as high as you like). from that mark, draw a line that slopes up towards the joining panels at the top seam. From the top seam measure down the bust line (this is a reference mark) along this mark, divide your bust measurement by 4 + 2″ and mark, from the mark you just made draw a straight line 2″ long towards the centre fold. Connect the end of this line and the panel joining along the top seam with a diagonal line, it should now look like this along the top

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7. With the head of your tape lined up with your top seam, mark your underbust line and your waist line; these are reference marks (remember the maths you did earlier, this is what I am referring to)
8. You will now mark your horizontal measurements along these vertical marks you just made, always remember that you are measuring from the centre folds. Quarter your, underbust and waist measurements, add 2 inches to each of these and mark this along the corresponding reference mark, join these marks with straight lines and from the waist mark slant your line to the corner of the hem. Cut around your lines through all layer (but when cutting along the sweetheart line, only cut the front layer)

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* notice I have drawn a different neckline for the back. I have made it much lower, you can also make it straight along the bustline in the back.

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9. Follow the darting steps in my Shirt Challenge Post (http://chinelobally.com/2014/02/26/the-shirt-challenge-my-giant-bow-boob-tube-tutorial/)

When you have sewn your darts. Place your pieces on fabric folded in the same was in the centre. Use your pieces as templates to create facings for your top.

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Interface your facing pieces and sew them to the matching section of your top.

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Turn your facings out, top stitch the seam excess to the facing and press

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Insert your zip into the back (I have use an invisible zip)

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Lay the front of the top on top of the back matching the centre waist lines. you will now pin the sine seams ready for sewing, ensure that the pieces are completely flat at waist and bust level, this will mean that the side seams to match up but this is fine.

divide your bust measurement by 4 and mark this along the bust line from the centre of the top, like the picture below. so this for the underbust and waist also

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Join your marks with a line, this will be the line you sew along.

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Copy this seam allowance to the other side and sew your top together

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Here is my finished product!!! I have embellished the neckline with some trimmings from scraps of black guipure lace I had left over from another project

As always I would really love to see your attempt at this. Please send me any questions you may have and I will endeavour to reply as soon as I can

lots of love

Chinelo

xxx

Up-Cycle Old Jeans to Cropped Denim Jacket

Hi everyone

I haven’t had much time to do these tutorials as often as I would like to, so please accept my apologies. I hope you are all well and enjoying the sunny days that are coming our way in the UK (for those of us in the UK). So as I sat thinking, what can I do to make up for this shortage of new tutorials, it hit me that a nice up-cycle would be a good idea and on that note I stormed my husbands wardrobe with a mission (as you do). Tunde (my DH) has an abundance of jeans he just doesn’t wear any more so naturally I decided that this was the garment to pinch. I really wanted to use just the fabric in the jeans so the challenge I set myself was to come up with something stylish and wearable without adding any other fabric. Here is what I ended up with

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but I’m really interested to see what everyone else would do differently, or if you have ever done a jeans up-cycle please let me see!! In the meantime, here’s the “how to” for this one folks.

You will need:

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A pair of jeans (preferably a large pair, men or women’s as long as it will have enough fabric in it)

Scissors

Chalk

Ruler

Measuring Tape

Seam ripper or Razor Blade

Steam Iron

Sewing Machine

Measurements needed:

Back, bust, waist, shoulder to bust, shoulder to waist and round sleeve

I have a video on how to measure yourself http://chinelobally.com/2014/01/16/sew-essential-how-to-measure-yourself/

Step 1

Using your tape, measure and mark 0.75″ below the waistband all the way around, cut along this line and keep the waist band to one side (measure the thickness of the band and make note of this measurement)

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Step 2

Using your seam ripper or razor blade, carefully cut away the threads that hold the back patch pockets to detach them, set these aside.

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Step 3 

Working on one of the back legs, use your ruler to draw a straight horizontal line as close to the top as possible; this is to give you a straight edge to start building your measurements on

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Step 4

from the straight line, measure downwards 9″ and mark (this is a reference mark)

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minus the thickness of the waist band from the shoulder to waist measurement and mark this from the top as you just did previously. (this is your second reference mark)

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The outer side seam of the leg you are working on is going to be your centre back, so when you do your markings for these steps make sure that you work from that edge in towards the inner leg seams

 

Quarter your bust measurement+2″ and mark this horizontally along the 9″ reference mark you made with a small cross. This is now the bust line

quarter your waist measurement+2″ and mark this horizontally along the second reference mark, again with a small cross

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Half the back measurement+0.5″ and mark this along the top from the centre back.

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From the cross at the bust line, draw a 2″ straight horizontal line towards the centre back

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Draw a curved line that joins the mark along the top line to the beginning of the 2″ line you just drew

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To create the neck hole, measure 3.5″ along the top line from the centre back and 1.25″ down the centre back, draw a curve that joins these 2 makings

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draw a straight line that joins the 2 crosses at the side, and a straight horizontal line along the bottom that extends from the centre back to the second cross this is now your waist seam.

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Cut this out; be very careful when cutting, make sure you only cut one layer and do not cut off the seam allowance in the jeans originally because you will use this when sewing the back pieces together. lay this piece on the other leg in the same position you cut it out from and cut around it.

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Now flip your jeans over to the front, lay you piece on one of the front legs and cut around this, this is now one half of the front. take this piece and deepen the curve in the armhole

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now lay this on the other front leg and cut around it.

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Step 5

measure the crossover in the waist band, half this and make note of this

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cross your front pieces over in the centre to replicate the crossover in the waist band now draw a neckline that suites your preference

 

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cut this out and you are ready to place your darts

Step 6

line up your front and back pieces, measure across your breast points (apex/nipple), half this measurement, and fold your fabric along the waist seam at this measurement. press to create a definite crease; this is now your dart line. (the yellow line you see in the picture below is the cross over point in the front)

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from the highest point of the shoulder seam, mark the shoulder to bust measurement along the crease. place one finger In the deepest part of the front arm hole curve and another finger on the bust point you just marked and fold across these to fingers to create a diagonal crease that extends from the arm hole to the dart line, press this.

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you will now have a crease that resembles the yellow line in the picture below

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the dart from the arm hole will be 1″ deep and 3″ long and so will the dart in the front, when you draw them, slightly curve the lines,

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This is one continuous dart so when you sew it you must start from the arm hole and once you reach the end of the 3″ do not sew off the fabric; rather continue right on the edge of the crease and when the creases intercept, pick up the machine foot with the needle still down, pivot the fabric so that you will now be working on the front crease, keep sewing close to the edge till you come to the dart lines you drew and continue sewing along the dart line .

The Back darts are 1″ deep and 12″ long

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once you have drawn and sew your darts sew the back pieces together in the centre using the seam allowance that was originally in the jeans

Step 7

attach the front pieces to either side of the back piece with a 0.5″ seam allowance

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working at the waist seam of the bodice, measure the length from the centre back seam to the centre front

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Fold the waist band in half, measuring from the front, mark the measurement you just took from the waist seam of the bodice. Add 0.5″ to this as seam allowance.

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Cut off the excess from the waist band, sew it back together with the 0.5″ seam allowance.

sew the waist band to the bodice, matching up the centre back seams

Step 8

With your tape, measure the entire neck hole

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cut out a piece from the jeans that is 10″ thick and half the neck hole measurement +0.5″  long. Fold this in half so that it becomes 5″ thick, cut a slight slant on one end. I should like this

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repeat this so that you have 2 of these

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sew these together in the middle with a 0.25″ seam allowance , and sew the slanted edges with a 0.25″ allowance.

Turn it out press and sew this around the neck hole .

to make the sleeves have a look at my post on sleeves ( http://chinelobally.com/2014/02/04/busy-bee-how-to-cut-a-sleeve-without-a-pattern/ )

As usual guys if you have any questions just contact me and I will do my best to clarify for you, i would really love to see your attempt at this and would appreciate any pictures.

On another note, there are very few spaces left on my up-coming maxi dress work shop. Click on this link to book your space!!

https://www.kazoova.com/activity/454/

Till next time

Happy sewing

xxx

 

 

 

 

Maxi Dress!!! Summer is nearly upon us

Hi Guys

I really hope everyone’s been enjoying the few days of sunshine we have had in the UK so far? I’m a real heat freak and I just love the sunshine. I really love to welcome the warmer months (or days, as is the case in the UK) with some lovely floral prints and I absolutely love maxi gowns for this time of year, they are just perfect; easy to wear and extremely versatile, a maxi dress is a must for every wardrobe. Imagine the possibilities and the combinations you can achieve from making your own maxi dress; you could colour block for a fresh look, go floral for some feminine chic, and embellish or accessorize your dress to you heart’s content, to make it as understated or as overstated as you wish. With this in mind and the numerous requests for new workshop dates, i have decided to add new workshop dates!!! and you guessed it, we are making this pretty number:

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I have added only 5 dates for this workshop so spaces are very limited; get booking guys!!! Here’s the link https://www.kazoova.com/activity/454/

I have been extremely busy working on my new studio and other things, all very exciting, but have kept me completely busy. I will do a tutorial for something as soon as I possibly can, I’m thinking something up-cycled, let me know your opinions and watch this space for it

Till we meet again, stay fabulous and have a blessed week

xxx