I haven’t had much time to do these tutorials as often as I would like to, so please accept my apologies. I hope you are all well and enjoying the sunny days that are coming our way in the UK (for those of us in the UK). So as I sat thinking, what can I do to make up for this shortage of new tutorials, it hit me that a nice up-cycle would be a good idea and on that note I stormed my husbands wardrobe with a mission (as you do). Tunde (my DH) has an abundance of jeans he just doesn’t wear any more so naturally I decided that this was the garment to pinch. I really wanted to use just the fabric in the jeans so the challenge I set myself was to come up with something stylish and wearable without adding any other fabric. Here is what I ended up with
but I’m really interested to see what everyone else would do differently, or if you have ever done a jeans up-cycle please let me see!! In the meantime, here’s the “how to” for this one folks.
You will need:
A pair of jeans (preferably a large pair, men or women’s as long as it will have enough fabric in it)
Seam ripper or Razor Blade
Back, bust, waist, shoulder to bust, shoulder to waist and round sleeve
I have a video on how to measure yourself http://chinelobally.com/2014/01/16/sew-essential-how-to-measure-yourself/
Using your tape, measure and mark 0.75″ below the waistband all the way around, cut along this line and keep the waist band to one side (measure the thickness of the band and make note of this measurement)
Using your seam ripper or razor blade, carefully cut away the threads that hold the back patch pockets to detach them, set these aside.
Working on one of the back legs, use your ruler to draw a straight horizontal line as close to the top as possible; this is to give you a straight edge to start building your measurements on
from the straight line, measure downwards 9″ and mark (this is a reference mark)
minus the thickness of the waist band from the shoulder to waist measurement and mark this from the top as you just did previously. (this is your second reference mark)
The outer side seam of the leg you are working on is going to be your centre back, so when you do your markings for these steps make sure that you work from that edge in towards the inner leg seams
Quarter your bust measurement+2″ and mark this horizontally along the 9″ reference mark you made with a small cross. This is now the bust line
quarter your waist measurement+2″ and mark this horizontally along the second reference mark, again with a small cross
Half the back measurement+0.5″ and mark this along the top from the centre back.
From the cross at the bust line, draw a 2″ straight horizontal line towards the centre back
Draw a curved line that joins the mark along the top line to the beginning of the 2″ line you just drew
To create the neck hole, measure 3.5″ along the top line from the centre back and 1.25″ down the centre back, draw a curve that joins these 2 makings
draw a straight line that joins the 2 crosses at the side, and a straight horizontal line along the bottom that extends from the centre back to the second cross this is now your waist seam.
Cut this out; be very careful when cutting, make sure you only cut one layer and do not cut off the seam allowance in the jeans originally because you will use this when sewing the back pieces together. lay this piece on the other leg in the same position you cut it out from and cut around it.
Now flip your jeans over to the front, lay you piece on one of the front legs and cut around this, this is now one half of the front. take this piece and deepen the curve in the armhole
now lay this on the other front leg and cut around it.
measure the crossover in the waist band, half this and make note of this
cross your front pieces over in the centre to replicate the crossover in the waist band now draw a neckline that suites your preference
cut this out and you are ready to place your darts
line up your front and back pieces, measure across your breast points (apex/nipple), half this measurement, and fold your fabric along the waist seam at this measurement. press to create a definite crease; this is now your dart line. (the yellow line you see in the picture below is the cross over point in the front)
from the highest point of the shoulder seam, mark the shoulder to bust measurement along the crease. place one finger In the deepest part of the front arm hole curve and another finger on the bust point you just marked and fold across these to fingers to create a diagonal crease that extends from the arm hole to the dart line, press this.
you will now have a crease that resembles the yellow line in the picture below
the dart from the arm hole will be 1″ deep and 3″ long and so will the dart in the front, when you draw them, slightly curve the lines,
This is one continuous dart so when you sew it you must start from the arm hole and once you reach the end of the 3″ do not sew off the fabric; rather continue right on the edge of the crease and when the creases intercept, pick up the machine foot with the needle still down, pivot the fabric so that you will now be working on the front crease, keep sewing close to the edge till you come to the dart lines you drew and continue sewing along the dart line .
The Back darts are 1″ deep and 12″ long
once you have drawn and sew your darts sew the back pieces together in the centre using the seam allowance that was originally in the jeans
attach the front pieces to either side of the back piece with a 0.5″ seam allowance
working at the waist seam of the bodice, measure the length from the centre back seam to the centre front
Fold the waist band in half, measuring from the front, mark the measurement you just took from the waist seam of the bodice. Add 0.5″ to this as seam allowance.
Cut off the excess from the waist band, sew it back together with the 0.5″ seam allowance.
sew the waist band to the bodice, matching up the centre back seams
With your tape, measure the entire neck hole
cut out a piece from the jeans that is 10″ thick and half the neck hole measurement +0.5″ long. Fold this in half so that it becomes 5″ thick, cut a slight slant on one end. I should like this
repeat this so that you have 2 of these
sew these together in the middle with a 0.25″ seam allowance , and sew the slanted edges with a 0.25″ allowance.
Turn it out press and sew this around the neck hole .
to make the sleeves have a look at my post on sleeves ( http://chinelobally.com/2014/02/04/busy-bee-how-to-cut-a-sleeve-without-a-pattern/ )
As usual guys if you have any questions just contact me and I will do my best to clarify for you, i would really love to see your attempt at this and would appreciate any pictures.
On another note, there are very few spaces left on my up-coming maxi dress work shop. Click on this link to book your space!!
Till next time