Hi there Stitchers,
GARMENT OF THE WEEK!!!!!!!!!! so so so excited and I absolutely loved making that dress. Velvet is high up there in my list of fabrics I love and I absolutely adore gem tones hence that rich purple and emerald green.
This week on the sewing be we tackled stretch fabric and although a lot of people don’t like working with stretchy fabric, in it’s defence, it does produce some beautiful garments. I love the way it sculpts itself around the body, its just totally delicious.
Inspired by my Mock wrap dress on Sewing Bee, I have decided to do a tutorial based on the skirt of the dress. Here goes!!
You will need:
Fabric (width: your waist+14″ Height: the length you wish your skirt to be)
Something to mark your fabric
Contrasting thread and needle.
Take the fabric and fold it in half width-wise, and fold in one inch on the selvedge edge (this is your zip allowance);
*Note (if you are using a 2 way stretch fabric, then make sure the stretch is going across your body, so test which way the fabric stretches before cutting it
along the top mark half of your waist measurement, then mark 5″ in towards the zip allowance
On the folded edge, measure down 7″ from the top corner and mark
At the bottom corner of the zip allowance edge, measure 4″ towards the fold:
Working from the top edge again, freehand a curve that joins the first mark with the mark you make 7″ down from the top corner.
now draw a curve from the 7″ point to the 4″ point along the bottom edge that looks like this: and cut it out.
from the top of the zip allowance edge measure and mark the length of you zip. From that mark sew down the remaining of the zip allowance so you only have a short opening at the top to fit your zip into.
unfold the skirt and hem right around the edge (you can hem it or use bias binding, I have used bias binding).
Do a gathering stitch from the second notch at the top to the end :
gather up the gathering stitch so that the gathered edge is the same distance as the distance between the 2 top notches.:
fold the gathered edged in so that the inner start of the gathering meets in the middle (this is now the centre front of the skirt), pin in place. it will look like this:
Sew from gathered edge to gathered edge, to secure on place. now you are ready to do the waist band
Cut out a strip of fabric 4″ length way, and you waist measurement + 2″ width way. cut out an identical strip of fusible interfacing and fuse to the strip
Fold the strip in half length way and press. Then turn in 3/8″ along the width and press:
*notice I have pen marked the centre of the waist band, this will be batched with the centre front of the skirt
At both ends of the waist band fold in 1″ and press like so:
This 1″ will not start folded this is just to create a crease for matching up with the zip allowance fold on the skirt.
With the skirt inside out still, lay the waist band on the skirt with the centre points matched up.
secure with pins matching the seams together at the zip allowance fold and sew right along the entire edge with a 3/8″ seam allowance:
Turn the skirt right side out and bring the folded edge over and in in place like this:
do a hand sewn basting stitch all the way around the waistband then take the pins out
Now top stitch right on the inner edge if the waist band, insert you choice of zip at the back and hey presto.
This skirt will only work in a fabric with a good amount of stretch.
If you don’t want a skirt why not use a pattern you like for the bodice (or stay tuned to learn how to cut a bodice freehand soon) and attach the skirt to it, omitting the waistband.
As usual I would loooove to see your attempt please post them up so I can have a look. Feel free to leave a comment below and ask me questions about anything you don’t understand. Apologies for the picture quality, I’m working on getting a new camera.
Till next week, have fun sewing